after getting up early we were heading for moskenes on the lofoten islands. on the way there we stopped at a viking museum. on a 1500m long walk one could see a reconstructed chieftains house, viking ship, smithy, charcoal kilns, and a boathouse. furthermore remains of original houses, boathouses, settlements, grave mounds, and a christian cemetery. the reconstructed ship and the chieftain house were very interesting, showing the daily lives of the viking people. an interesting fact: viking-helmets had no horns! afterwards we drove on to moskenes to get the ferry to bodoe. on our way we gave two couples a ride. the first one was french and got off after about 10 minutes at a bus station (we don't remember where they wanted to go), the second one was a swedish one. they wanted to go to the beach, and therefore were heading for the ferry in reine. so they got off our camper at a crossing. they asked if they could take a picture of us, since they were tramping and took a picture of everyone that gave them a ride. we agreed. i hope the picture does not end up being shown on the internet. when we arrived at moskenes it was a bit frustrating at first. the ferry left the harbour every four hours, we were waiting in the third lane to get on the ship. this was two hours before the ferry arrived. the people from the ferry company told us we will not make it on the first one. the second one left moskenes at 21:15. so all in all we were waiting for six and a half hour. but fortunately it was a sunny day, so we left our camper on the third lane (in pole position!), took a walk through moskenes (actually the entire village is centered around the ferry harbour, and besides that, there is only a church that was built 1865). but we saw a little cute cat, begging for food at the back-entrance of the cafe next to the ferry information center. finally, at 21:30 (yes, the ferry had 15 minutes delay), we left the lofoten islands. on the four hours ferry trip we enjoyed the landscapes scrolling by, tried another unknown candy bar at the ferry shop (every time we stop at a gas station we buy a candy bar that looks interesting, and are of course unknown to us. it's always a surprise what we get, since we don't understand the ingredients list. but up to now they were all really delicious). it was 00:30 when we arrived at bodoe. since most camping ground receptions are not opened anymore at that time we decided to spend another night on some parking lot. our scandinavian guide said there are wonderful maelstroms about 30km eastwards of bodoe. so we decided to go that direction as long as we are not too tired. driving at that time is actually no problem, since it's still as light as during the day. the only thing that is different to driving at daytime is, that one can see moose! yes, we saw them - plenty of them! all in all we saw about eight or nine moose, two of them were baby-moose. the young moose have tremendously long legs compared to their overall size. we found out, that moose are actually as dumb as they are tall. and they are _very_ tall. but fortunately they are also as cute as they are dumb. really lovely creatures. late in the night we arrived at the malstroems in saltstraumen. the maelstroms looked wonderful in the sunset light. we took some photos, and then stopped at some parking ground to finally get some sleep.